MANUFACTURING

Contrary to what one might think, the first step in creating a sweater is not drawing it. It is rare for us to make a sketch of the garment. Instead, we start by writing it out. We specify which yarn has been chosen, which machine will be used, the needle size, the knitting stitch, the desired tightness, and the shape of the sweater. A sweater can be conceptualized from the very stage of model research, but inspiration often comes from the yarn itself. This is possible thanks to the high-quality products offered by our yarn suppliers, in whom we have complete trust. There are two approaches to making a sweater: either the model is already found, and we seek the appropriate yarn, or we find inspiration from the yarn and then look for the most suitable model to showcase it.

The Programming

The programmer decides the movements of the needles and ensures they produce the desired stitch for the knitted panels (the back, torso, and sleeves). Using a dedicated computer, they program the knitting machine to produce the chosen model autonomously. Numerous adjustments are required, including for the needle, the desired stitch...

Knitting

Once the program is completed and transmitted to the machine, further adjustments are needed, primarily concerning the yarn. Even though years of expertise help the brand produce high-quality sweaters, it is essential to constantly check the machine's output to ensure the dimensions of the knit are correct. Machine adjustments can take several hours or even days. Each knitted panel is then washed, ironed, and finished to achieve its final appearance. Washing and finishing alter the dimensions of the panel, so further adaptation to the material is necessary. This adds to the complexity of sweater manufacturing. Washing and finishing are required when the garment contains at least 50% natural fibers. However, while these two steps are often essential, they can extend the manufacturing process, and if the style allows, they may sometimes be omitted. They are essentially techniques of enhancement.

Washing

Washing is crucial as it sets the yarn and prepares it for finishing, where it will expand and become softer. Setting the yarn is important for the sweater’s durability and resistance. When the panels are washed, they are subjected to very specific regimes. Temperature and washing time are precisely controlled. Each material has its preferred program to respect the yarn and achieve the desired result. For example, when washing a mohair sweater, a different program is used compared to a panel knitted in merino wool. For mohair, the goal is to release the hair and prevent the yarn from setting too firmly. Therefore, less heat is used, and the spinning speed is reduced. For merino wool, on the other hand, the aim is to set the yarn deeply, requiring more heat and speed.

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Finishing

With finishing, the panels are rotated at different speeds in a drum to release the hair. Speed and heat are necessary to dry the piece coming out of the wash. The more the panels hit the drum's sides, the more the hair is released. As mentioned earlier, washing and finishing are essential when using pieces made with more than 50% natural materials. They completely change the product's appearance and the feel against the skin. You can confirm this by visiting our workshop at any time.

Assembly

The final step is assembly, also known as sewing. This involves putting together all the knitted parts and panels. This step is done using a common sewing machine, where we assemble the back and torso before sewing on the collar and sleeves. Although our sewing machines are common, their setup is somewhat different. They are mounted on a large wooden table and have two or three additional adjustment points. The machines used are often Juki, Rimoldi, or Singer. Overlock machines, overlock plates, and finishing machines are used to assemble the sweater according to its material and knitting method.

If the sweater is knitted entirely in reduced stitches, it can be assembled directly without cutting the piece. It is joined edge to edge using a finishing machine that threads a yarn on each side to create a very clean assembly without seams. An overlock machine can also be used (for assembling t-shirts, shirts, jeans) to attach the parts together, making the seams more robust or adding originality.

We start with the shoulders by joining the torso and the back. Next, we attach the collar before assembling the sides of the piece. The sleeves are the last parts to be added. Finishing is the most complex and time-consuming assembly technique. It is primarily used for collars and armholes but requires a lot of time as it is done stitch by stitch. At Nitto Knitwear, we prefer overlocking.

We occasionally finish some pieces, especially collars, but only if it adds a distinct originality, as it takes four times longer than overlocking. Our sweaters are therefore mostly assembled with an overlock machine. During assembly, the tightness must be adjusted based on the knitted panel's thickness and the yarn used. The most important aspect is preserving the product's shape, which requires maintaining flexibility in the seam to prevent it from stiffening the garment. This step thus requires great concentration and precision, explaining why it takes between twenty minutes for a simple sweater and an hour and forty minutes for a complex cardigan.

Ironing

After sewing on the brand label on the collar, the composition label inside the piece, and the size tag, the sweater must be ironed to flatten the seams and give the garment its final shape for wearing.

Programming, knitting, washing, finishing, assembly, and ironing are the main steps in sweater manufacturing. However, while these steps are necessary, the expertise and techniques used for fifty years enable the production of high-quality sweaters with a distinctive appearance attributed to the knitters of Clamart, most of whom are no longer around but have marked the city's and knitting's history.